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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known high-end names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.